For a few weeks each year, Kelantan goes a little durian-mad. When the trees drop their fruit, roadside stalls pile high with the spiky king of fruits and its relatives, and locals gather to eat them on the spot, splitting the shells and comparing varieties with the seriousness of wine tasting.
Beyond durian, the same season brings rambutan, mangosteen, langsat and duku, a whole calendar of tropical fruit. It is cheap, sociable and intensely local, and the smell alone is an experience.
Practical notes: Timing shifts year to year with the rains, often around the middle of the year, so ask locally whether the season is on. Fruit is sold by weight; a “buffet” deal at some stalls lets you eat your fill. Try it fresh, and if you love it, look for durian-filled kuih too.